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Mexico Report
by Capt. Pat Rains
Ixtapa And Zihuatanejo Create A Double Destination Dream
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The resort ports of Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo are the vortex of The largest cruising ground at the south end of Mexico’s Gold Coast. Connected by spectacular coastline, this double destination in the state of Guerrero provides yacht services, sail fishing, snorkel diving and nautical fun during winter cruising season.
Despite their geographic proximity, Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo are quite different, and both are popular destinations for yatistas - cruising powerboaters, sailors and sportfishers.
Ixtapa is a newer resort. Created in 1975 in the image of Cancun, Ixtapa features luxury hotel towers, flashing disco bars that open at 10 p.m., emerald- green golf courses that wrap around water holes and miles of dazzling white beaches. Yatistas will find 600 full-service slips and the region’s primary floating fuel dock within Marina Ixtapa’s two interior basins. Ixtapa’s ambiance is young and vibrant, with a resident population of only about 7,000. Bicycles, surfboards and scooters are rented more often than golf carts, except on the links.
Isla Ixtapa, also called Isla Grande, lies 2.68 n.m. up the coast from the marina entrance, and four smaller islands (with excellent diving and snorkeling) stand guard just outside the marina entrance. (More on the marina later.) Less than 2 miles southeast you’ll find a good fishing reef called Sacramento. The reef and islands provide choices for short dinghy excursions and day forays from the marina.
Zihuatanejo Bay is a small natural harbor only 6 n.m. down the coast from Ixtapa. Dubbed Z-Bay, this 1.5- mile indentation zigzags between picturesque rocky headlands and sandy beaches. Though open to the south, the bay is sheltered from the north wind by the Sierra de Madre del Sur’s rolling foothills. Carnival cruise ships anchor inside and outside Zihuatanejo Bay, along with 50 to 100 yachts swinging on the hook, but locals have refused to allow a cruise ship pier to be built inside their fragile bay.
The historic town of Zihuatanejo (population 140,000) fills the west side of the bay and imparts a more traditional atmosphere of tranquility. Tongue-tied gringos often refer to this as Z-town, and drivers on the bus that links it with Ixtapa announce it as Zihua - pronounced ZEE-wah.
Zihuatanejo’s pedestrian walkway is shaded by large trees and is lined with beach cafés and tourist shops. Smaller hotels cling to the hillsides, and the town’s municipal pier juts into the bay - but it’s for excursion boats only. Yatistas have to drag their dinghies onto the beach alongside the town’s many pangas.
In Aztec legend, this beautiful little bay was named Zihuatlatl, or refuge of the goddess women, later verified by lusty Spanish explorers but modified to Zihuatanejo - place of the goddess women. (No wonder so many single male sailors are lured here in search of that perfect senorita or a permanent female crewmember.)
Yacht Services
Marina Ixtapa is the primary resource for yatistas in this region. It’s the only true yacht marina you’ll find between Manzanillo (190 n.m. up the coast) and Acapulco (120 n.m. down the road).
My GPS approach waypoint about a quarter mile south of Marina Ixtapa’s lighted breakwaters is 17 degrees 39.50 minutes north latitude, 101 degrees 37.22 minutes west longitude. The entrance channel has wave baffles protruding from both sides, and a dredge often works in the channel, so call the marina office in advance on VHF 16, 14 or 18 for immediate conditions. Sometimes they can ask the dredge to move and anchor to one side so you can enter. But in summer, this region is awash in southerly surf.
Cruising yachts are normally directed to a full-service slip in the larger east basin, so bear hard to starboard after you clear the entrance channel. The small north basin is shallower and filled with private docks.
Marina Ixtapa has been refurbished recently, and the floating fuel dock is in the west corner of the main basin. Ask the marina office to recommend local workers who can wash your boat’s exterior and interior (But not the bottom. See sidebar for the reason.), repair engines, sew canvas, etc.
The easily recognized landmark tower rises above the basin’s southwest seawall and presents an unusual image. Whether you see it as a flying saucer or a hamburger, the bar atop the 12-story tower - lots of stairs and a slow elevator - offers 360-degree views. Surrounding the marina are many eateries (from breakfast cafés to fine dining) on the ground floor of colorful condos and villas.
For more information on Marina Ixtapa, call or fax Dockmistress Ilsa or her staff at 011-52 (755) 553-2180, or e-mail reservations@marinaixtapa.com.
In Bahia Zihuatanejo, the small Marina Puerto Mio no longer operates regular guest slips, but it sometimes has an opening among the excursion boats and sometimes sells gasoline. Puerto Mio is located hard to starboard after you enter the north lobe of Z-Bay.
Provisioning for fresh produce and staples is fairly good in two airconditioned supermarkets in Ixtapa and three in Zihuatanejo. But don’t pass up Manzanillo or Acapulco for larger provisioning runs.
Together, Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo offer a nice variety of experiences for adventurous voyagers during regular cruising season.
Anchors Aweigh
If you’re not interested in the full service of a marina slip, the area offers plenty of anchoring options. The best part of anchoring off Isla Ixtapa is that all the tourists who arrive by panga must go back at sunset. Anchor in either of two coves on the north side.
The Islas Blancas just outside Marina Ixtapa are called La Concepción, La Merced, San Antonio and Placer Nuevo. Although they are used mostly for dive excursions, in calm sea conditions, anchoring among them overnight is a treat.
Around Zihuatanejo Bay, the main beach anchorages for cruising yachts are off Playa La Ropa, Playa Madero and Playa Principal. But Playa Las Gatas, separated off the south side of the bay, is a good dinghy excursion; anchor outside the reef and snorkel in.
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This article first appeared in the February 1, 2010 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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